The word “Tofu” first appeared in Japanese literature toward the end of the Heian period (794-1185). It is written on a document of offerings in the Kasuga Shrine in Nara. This document contains the word “Tofu” written in different kanji characters from those used today.

The term “Tofu cuisine” is first used in the “Okusa-ke Ryourisho” (Okusa Family Cooking Guide), and is said to have been written in the early Edo period (1603-1867).

The “Tofu Hyakuchin” (100 Tofu Delicacies), containing recipes and cooking instructions for one hundred tofu dishes, was published in 1782 (the second year of Tenmei). The author was Seikyoudoujin Kahitsujun. Of course, this is a penname. The most convincing theory is that this book was actually written by an engraver called Soya Gakusen.

“Tofu Hyakuchin” - A huge bestseller

In any case, it seems that this book was written as a hobby by someone who wasn’t a culinary specialist. “Tofu Hyakuchin” became a bestseller, and in the following year the “Tofu Hyakuchin Sequel” and subsequently the “Tofu Hyakuchin Addendum Edition” were published.

Furthermore, the concept of making a hundred different dishes from a single food resource became popular and books such as the “Tai Hyakuchin Ryouri Himitsubako” (100 Secret Sea Bream Delicacies) and the “Kansho Hyakuchin” (100 Sweet Potato Delicacies) followed suit.

“Tofu Hyakuchin” classifies its recipes into six categories. The first three categories are for dishes that can be eaten every day, while the latter three categories describe foods that are a little unusual.
The second half of the book typically has recipes for “Mock” dishes which are made to appear like something else such as “Shijimi Modoki” (Mock Clams), “Ayu Modoki” (Mock Sweetfish) and “Shojin Uni Dengaku” (Shojin Sea Urchin Grill).

When eating, people in the Edo period customarily separated foods with “fish and meat” smells and “Shojin” foods. For this reason “Modoki” (Mock) dishes were essential.

A look through the recipes reveals an extensive variety of cooking techniques such as simmering, steaming, boiling, grilling, deep-frying and shallow-frying, etc. The people of the Edo period may well have eaten more tofu than the people of today.